Tag Archives: Travel Blog

The good news is that it’s finally open. The Rijksmuseum had been closed for 10 years and just recently opened in April. What a job they have done! A beautiful glass atrium greets you incorporating a fabulous shop, café, and restaurant. The museum is set up in a completely orderly fashion. Being able to move efficiently through the museum and again see the breathtaking masterpieces of Dutch artists is a treat.

To look at the streets of Delft as they were rendered in the 17th century is to look at a photograph of the 1600’s. Somehow, you feel as if you are peeking into their world through a time machine. At this time, most paintings were based around religious themes, but the Dutch School brought their focus to everyday life inspiring a radical change in the way we see things.

After a couple of hours at the Rijksmuseum, I went to the Van Gogh Museum where, ironically, there were only four Van Gogh paintings. The museum space is excellent, but I found the exhibits unexceptional and wished for more time at the Rijksmuseum.

This was also my first time visiting Anne Frank’s house, something that everyone should see. Never more important than now. It teaches tolerance, forgiveness, and love for each other. Indeed out of the awfulness of the scenes, you pick up a wonderful sense of hope. I jumped on the hop-on, hop-off canal boat and could not help but think what a beautiful city this is.

A city of bikes and trams and canals. Great cozy pubs scattered along the streets that criss cross the waterways and its small enough to never get lost. It is easily connectable by fast train to London, Paris, Brussels, Berlin, and Bonn. A cool deviation with lots to do and see.

Got to go back.

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I had never been to Las Vegas before. In fact, I feel that I must be the only person in my office and probably one of the few people in America and Europe that had never been to Las Vegas. As the British Tourist Council had organized a conference there, I decided to pop over, meet up with some colleagues, see the sights, and then head back after a couple of nights.

What a weird, wonderful, and strange place it is.

The ride from the airport does not take long. Out of the desert, emerges the mirage of hotels in the middle of nowhere. Not just your average hotels either –- rather iconic sites of the world hotels. Every hotel is a casino. My check-in experience was walking through the casino, watching all of these people sitting by slot machines, smoking cigarettes, and losing money. Then there were other people who hung out on the empty card tables waiting for customers to play Blackjack, Poker, Craps, or Roulette. And still, nobody looked like they were making much, if any, money. No wonder the hotels don’t cost a lot here.

In the end, Las Vegas is like one huge shopping mall. Most people, I believe, never really leave their hotel environs. There are shops, waterfalls, fountains, restaurants, and swimming pools, but most people just wander around in the air-conditioned paradise of the interconnected walkways.

Out on the Strip, on the other hand, is another world. It is unbearably hot, there is a central four-lane highway running through and separating the hotels. And there are all of these iconic sights that you normally have to go halfway around the world to see that are jammed next door to each other.

And honestly, even though it is completely bizarre and hilarious, it is absolutely brilliant. The Eiffel Tower is stunning. The gondoliers in the canal at the Venetian are the real guys. The fountains at the Bellagio are awesome. There is a Trevi Fountain, a pyramid, and currently ready-to-roll is the largest ferris wheel in the world.

London, eat your heart out.

What is amazing about Vegas is stuff goes up really quickly. This juxtaposition of all of the new development architecture against the old, slightly seedier Vegas stuck in between. And it’s fall at the Bellagio! Trees were going up with red leaves, pumpkins, hay, and all of the accoutrements of fall, except in fall the leaves come off of the trees.

Oh well, it’s Vegas.

Ironically, the day after I left Vegas, I ended up at Red Gate Farm in Buckland, MA for a barn dinner fundraiser for all of the good work that Red Gate Farm does by bringing in kids from the inner city and teaching them about vegetables, animals, and the environment.

It was a magnificent evening. The local music director at Charlemont Academy, a nearby school, provided the music and the band. He played banjo. We left into a cold and crisp New England night where the stars were out, the moon was high, and the smell of fall was in the air.

The real deal.

No Eiffel Tower, no gondolas, and no fake trees. What a difference a day makes.

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Train travel is so good in Europe.

I needed to be in Amsterdam around 1 o’clock from Paris. The Thalys train leaves from the Gare du Nord and takes just about three hours, city center to city center. Trains leave on time, travel at high speeds, have refreshments on board, and are clean and comfortable. (The latter in stark contrast to Gare du Nord itself.)

The train stops en route in Brussels. I was tempted to get off because I have not been there for a few years, but instead I continued through to Amsterdam. Upon arrival, it is clear and quick to get to a hotel. The only danger that you have is not spotting the bikes or the trams that seem to come at you from every which way.

Throughout the city, there were literally thousands of bikes in bike parks. Everyone owns a bike here so I have no idea how anybody could possibly identify their bike. Apparently, the city allows bike parking for two years at which point the bikes are removed and sent to a bike pound where they can be bought by anybody for around 10 Euros.

Another thing about Amsterdam bikes is that they are all really basic and look second hand, nobody is going to steal them. People ride bikes while on the phone, they ride bikes with two kids sitting on the bike, with their dogs in a basket, there are fancy trailers for hauling stuff, and it all looks totally safe because the bike lanes are sacrosanct.

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My First Attempt at Making a Soufflé à Paris

One of the noticeable differences when travelling on an ACIS trip is the number of interactive and fun activities on each trip. These have really become some of the greatest trip highlights for students and teachers alike.

On a really hot day in Paris recently, I had packed in a guided sightseeing tour with the incomparable, Julian Brown, and shadowed a group in the Louvre to see how effective you could be walking through the museum, taking in the highlights, all while escaping the sense that there are one million people around you. Note…that’s impossible in the peak tourist season. I then had jumped on the Metro (not always a pleasant experience in the heat of the summer) and made my way over to the French cooking school, L’atelier des Chefs.

I have previously made baguettes during a baguette cooking class at L’Ecole de Boulangerie before. But today, with about 35 brave students and teachers, my goal was to make a chocolate soufflé and render a magnificent Crêpe Suzette. The funny thing about making a soufflé is that you have to be able to whip up egg whites. This takes a certain type of skill such as making mayonnaise or whipped cream using a hand whisk.

Most of us were pretty abysmal.

Making a souffle at a Paris cooking school

The real test with egg whites is to take the bowl once the whites have stiffened, brace yourself, and with absolute confidence, turn the bowl upside down over your head. If you end up with a wet head then you know you have failed. Somebody did indeed end up with a slightly wet head.

I had never made soufflé before because it always seemed complicated. Besides, I believe I have found the best soufflé in the world at a French Restaurant called La Cigale on the Left Bank. But you know what? It was a lot of fun and it was relatively easy! All of us laughed a little but with the gentlest of hands and the nicest and kindest introduction to the complications of preparing soufflé, the master chef made us all feel welcomed.

I probably got the best souvenir I have ever found on a trip. I got to take home a master recipe from a great chef in Paris.

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Not to say that there is any great evidence that this could be anything of a lasting effect, notwithstanding the issues of global warming, but the British are starting to question the very notion that their island was always destined to have a wet, gray, depressing climate for the rest of mankind.

The summer has taken the British by surprise. The newspapers have been headlining with “Phew, what a scorcher!” and people are starting to complain that it is just simply too hot and un-British. Wimbledon, won by the Scottish-born Andy Murray, went off with barely a drop of rain. The month of July seems increasingly to be a record-breaking month of unrelenting heat that has seen a mass exodus to Britain’s seaside shores at the expense of the Mediterranean beaches in Spain and Portugal. Who knows what August will bring?

Some have to be reminded that the giant orb in the sky that makes its way above the horizon every day, getting bigger and hotter, beaming down on the pasty Brits, relentlessly pouring heat onto the pavement, melting ice creams, and causing the locals to practically strip off in the parks and public, is actually the sun.

We have not seen it in England in years. We always wonder how the druids in Stonehenge could celebrate the summer solstice when they could not even see the sun through the clouds.

Pictured above: A student group poses in front of the London Eye on a sunny summer day.

But the Brits are now starting to like the orb. In those glorious long days, when nighttime comes after 10 o’clock and the warmth of the day’s sun still stays on the streets and in the gardens, the Brits have gotten used to it.

The other day, some friends of mine took the plastic paddling pool from their kids and plopped themselves into it while sipping their wine in the evening. It is weird, I agree — but when you have not seen the sun for more than 2,000 years, it is not altogether so strange.

With great regularity, the conversation on the trains, buses, and around the water cooler is now not about the rain and the damp, but it’s about this strange ball in the sky. The sightings are conclusive. It surfaces in the morning from behind the eastern horizon, sticks around for the best part of the day, and drops into the western sky to be replaced by a thing called the moon.

Long live the orb and may winter and the rain take a back seat to an English summer’s day.

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We struggle to come up with smart ways to navigate museums, especially if we are without a guide.

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I always try to imagine how complicated it is for a teacher and his or her group to pull this off; to give kids directions and yet still allow them the freedom to move around and interact with the art.

Recently, I was moving through the Louvre with a tablet pre-loaded with a game. It had lots of interactive activities with a time limit set on every question. I really wanted this to work. But for me the problem was that I stopped looking at the art and focused entirely on the questions on the tablet.

I love museums and could happily spend days wandering through the past. Realistically, with two hours and some “must-sees” like the Mona Lisa, the Raft of Medusa, the Coronation of Napoleon, the Wedding Feast at Cana, and Winged Victory, plus the incidentals, you have to be organized.

If you are working off of a tablet, the navigation points have to work and it has to be clear. For me, it was not brilliant and it didn’t help that they had spirited away the Winged Victory (as it were) while they were doing some renovations. Oh, well. Back to the drawing board as it were!

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After a minor hassle at the car rental counter in Venice’s Marco Polo Airport, I drove with my Stradale d’Italia Atlas away from the busy tourist town and up through the northern lakes of Italy; making a stop in Sirmione on Lake Garda for a lunch.

My aim was to go on a scenic route to the Dolomites to look at some possible itinerary ideas for our groups while taking in some cool mountain air and maybe escaping the heat that had engulfed all of Europe.

I have been to the Dolomites to ski a couple of times in the past few years. It has the largest connected network of ski trails in the world. However, I had never visited in the summertime before.

It’s quite something.

The first thing that is clear as you climb north beyond the lakes and across the spectacular vineyards that hang on the lower slopes of the mountains is that the signage shifts language. Entering the Südtirol, or in Italian “Alto Adige,” named after the river, you have the distinct feeling that you are not in Italy anymore. The shape of the churches, the colors of the buildings, dare I say it — the overall cleanliness of the towns, and the lack of chaos indicate that you may be in Austria or Germany. Guess what? You really are!

After Austria was defeated in the First World War, the Italians grabbed the Südtirol and renamed it the “Alto Adige.” Every German name was given an Italian name –- Bozen became Bolzano, St. Ulrich became Ortisei, Kastelruth became Castelrotto, and so on.

The government wooed the German-speaking population and their politicians with vast amounts of money and economic incentives. Thus, the Südtirol is the richest area in all of Italy. Needless to say, they do not exactly embrace the Italian side of their heritage. Mainly, because there is none! Political parties often talk of secession but given their relative amount of independence and the money that goes into keeping them happy, these German speakers have a pretty good deal.

The area is absolutely spectacular.

The Dolomites with their pinkish hue are not as foreboding as the neighboring Alps in Switzerland and France. You can stay in towns such as Ortisei or Castelrotto (or as I did in Fiè allo Sciliar) and from there you can take advantage of the highly efficient lift system which connects the various resorts together. Once atop the plateau, there are fabulous walks, mountain bikes for hire, and even lakes to swim in. In the distance, the higher mountains still have snow on them.

However, I focused on the Alpe di Siusi, which is Europe’s largest high-alpine meadow and separates two of the most famous valleys in the Dolomites, the Val de Fassa and Val Gardena. The altitude is not even 7,000 feet, but you are up there in the mountains with phenomenal views that seem to stretch to the horizon.

While I was there, the farmers were busy haying, the cows were grazing with their bells on, and there was a steady flow of serious hikers with backpacks and poles heading to the higher terrain. The colors are beautiful and wildflowers of blues, yellows, and reds are everywhere. From a distance, it appears that the mountains have been carpeted with a gorgeous tapestry.

Alpine huts dot the landscape and are for rent in both the summer and winter seasons. The sun holds along the flat plains for most of the day. There are restaurants discreetly tucked in between the trails and using the system of gondolas and simple ski lifts, you can traverse up to around 10,000 feet.

The walks are incredible, the views are amazing, and at the end of the day, the food is extraordinary, not to mention the glorious wines from the vineyards below. They are some of the best in the world.

This is a fabulous place to wander off the beaten path. Everything works and remarkably we are still in Italy. If you have never been to the Dolomites in the summer, it is a well worthwhile two-day deviation from Venice.

Watch out for itineraries to follow. This is a great winter and summer break excursion.

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