We had been stuck in a car for the best part of four hours as the snow came down around the Simplon Pass. Our escape by car-train was a longer process than we had imagined as all of the cars that were headed over the Simplon Pass were diverted to the car-train.
Eventually, and all while still snowing, we came into Italy and began the great descent down to Lake Maggiore. We had originally thought to go to the Borromean Islands, but at this point the snow had turned to rain. Even the picturesque Isola Bella looked like it was under threat of flooding so we sought refuge in a restaurant called Vecchia Scuola and had a marvelous lunch of pasta with lake fish.
Continuing on our journey, I was full of expectations as this was my first time in Turin or Torino. After suffering the usual sprawl of Northern Italian cities, and the promise from my Italian friend that things would get better, we suddenly came upon the Centro Storico of Turin. It was not what I had in mind. There were elegant piazzas, classical baroque buildings, and porticos that reminded me of Bologna. We checked into our hotel right in the center of town, Principi di Piemonte, found a great restaurant called Agrifolgio, and dove into Piedmont cooking at its best which included egg noodles with an incredible Bolognese sauce made with rabbit. They love their rabbit here.
Another first for me was the sight of a fairly large dog doing its business two tables away and in clear sight of most of the restaurant. I mean it was doing “number two”. At which point, the waiters, more attentive than before, proceeded to clean and mop up while the owner seemed completely non-apologetic and carried on with his own meal. I am used to dogs in restaurants in Paris popping out of women’s handbags but I was not quite ready for the sight of this.
Tomorrow, the weather was forecasted to be beautiful so we planned a full itinerary of sightseeing.
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