Category Archives: Blog

Checking out the Cuevas de las Maravillas – Dominican Republic

Richard, our local hero in the Dominican Republic, was hosting me for a day and a half.  He wanted to show me the Cuevas de las Maravillas which is just west of La Romana and is designated a national park.  I have been to a few caves in my time.  I remember well the caves near Nerja in Spain and the Postos in Slovenia.  Limestone plays fantastic tricks with water underground!  This was going to be a bit of an adventure.

Our first and minor obstacle were that the caves were closed on the day we were going to be visiting.  Richard, in his charming
Dominican Spanish, disturbed a guy from a siesta and asked him if there was any way that he could let us into the park and caves.  The “transaction” was done quickly and before you know it the gates had been opened and we were walking along a path with a stone wall on either side.  After about ten minutes, the first surprise came.  On both sides of the wall, hanging around on trees and munching away on plants, were iguanas or baby dinosaurs, I’m not quite sure.  Lots of them though.  That prompted me to inquire if there were any venom issues – apparently not.  Eventually, we got to the opening of the caves, all quite civilized, and then began the descent.  Inside the cave, there are about 500 paintings and engravings on the walls all made by the Taínos, the ancient inhabitants of the island and in general, most of the Caribbean.  There were human faces, animals, and geometric figures.  All pretty basic stuff but all incredible given the time period.  It is a rare photograph of life just before Columbus arrived.  Of course, as is the case with all of the native Indians, they got royally (pardon the pun) screwed by either the Catholic monarchy or the diseases that the discoverer’s brought with them.  So now we get to walk through their caves. For me it was a fabulous travel moment – alone, no tourists, just the guy who opened the door for us, and the only noise was the dripping of water through the stalactites that are endlessly fascinating and at the same time you wonder if today is the day that they will fall to the ground.

 

My First All-Inclusive Resort – Dominican Republic

I was picked up by a driver at the Santo Domingo airport in the Dominican Republic.  The drive to my resort was an hour and a half away.  Driving is a little crazy here and we did a lot of weaving in and out of traffic but eventually, we made it.  I was heading to one of those up-market all-inclusive resorts surrounded by golf courses, a marina, and a white sand beach.  I was taking advantage of an outstanding credit on our books and it was a chance to see a little bit of the Dominican Republic.

The resort was huge and had the feel of a TV show about it.  Golf carts rolled around and everyone had one.  It was a little surreal and a bit like the TV show of the 1960’s, The Prisoner.  After a while, you get into it.  The golf carts were a must anyhow because the beach and the marina were around 7 kilometers away.  There were polo fields and skeet shooting places, and golf courses with guys dressed up to the nines with their own caddies and looking surprisingly and shockingly bad.  It even gave me cause to think I could return here to play golf even though I’m appalling.  Unfortunately, I got lost easily and was fooled by speed bumps.  The golf cart even lost its front piece somewhere on the road and I had to get out to fix it.  It all became part of my routine.  Take advantage of the pool in the morning, a nice breakfast, a drive in the golf cart for about an hour, and then a sunset at the beach.  I didn’t take advantage of any of the main facilities mainly because I wouldn’t know how to skeet shoot, I don’t like guns, and polo was something that was way beyond my class station!

But the place was really nice.  I was traveling on my own, got used to my own company, and the service was impeccable.  The restaurant by the reception was decent although there was this irritating rule that you had to wear a collared shirt to eat there.  Really?  There were a bunch of restaurants by the marina that was great for lunch, but for dinner, at least in my golf cart, it was simply too much of a perilous thought to have a beer or glass of wine and then jump back into my golf cart to drive on dark roads with rarely any signposts.  My driver told me that David Ortiz and Manny Ramirez lived in a complex not far from here.  I could get used to it I suppose.  I was very grateful that this was my introductory immersion to the Dominican Republic.

 

For Who the Trump Bell Tolls

Inbound travel to the US is certainly getting impacted by Trump’s travel ban and the rhetoric that surrounds it.  Emirates Airlines said recently that bookings have plummeted 35% on US routes.  International travel in general to the US has fallen by around 7%.  Airlines are canceling forward orders for new equipment because the size of the inbound US market is so huge and the impact in dollars is making no good sense to their balance books.  Programs that are being sold overseas inbound to the US are also being affected.  When you talk about affecting Middle East dollars, you are talking serious dollars and lots of them that will be spent somewhere else.  It’s too early to say whether this travel ban will drag the airline industry in another direction.  But inbound flights to the US that carried highly profitable passengers that spend serious amounts of money are not easily going to be replaced soon.

 

Exploring the Treasures in Colmar

Colmar was such a surprise.  I had no idea what treasures were there.  We had decided to go
Colmar because the famed Unterlinden Museum had some extraordinary medieval polyptychs from the early 1300’s.  The masterpiece was the Isenheim altarpiece.  My mate loved this stuff so frankly, he dragged us all there and what a pleasant and wonderful surprise it was.  In addition to these spectacularly colorful paintings, there were a scattering of Picassos and the museum held one of the three tapestries of La Guernica.  As for the other two tapestries – one is in Japan and the other is owned by Nelson Rockefeller’s estate and is constantly out on loan.

I didn’t know that this delightful town was a spectacular assemblage of Hansel and Gretel half-timbered houses that wound around the narrow streets and along the canals that crisscrossed the city.  The colors of these quaint houses were amazing, almost surreal.  We took what essentially was a punt boat with an electric motor and silently weaved our way under low bridges and gardens that backed onto the canal.  It looked and reminded me of Little Venice in London.  How had I missed this place on my prior travels?  It’s old brick marketplace, it’s completely authentic feel, it felt, unlike any place I had ever been to.   It definitely did not feel like France but they sure spoke French!  It was one of those places that had been trading nationalities for well over a century.  It was Alsace.

 

Uncovering Switzerland’s Capital City- Bern

I had never felt the need to return to Bern, Switzerland’s capital, after I had visited it about 35 years ago.  I do not recall much other than their famed Bear Pit, also known as The Bärengraben.  Beyond that it was a place between somewhere you had come from to somewhere you wanted to get to.   It was a stop for lunch or a break on a monotonous journey along motorways.  One things for sure, it wasn’t Rome.

However, recently a friend of mine had the bright idea to revisit the place and stop at the Paul Klee Museum.  It’s well worth the stop if you happened to be on that road.  It’s an odd architectural piece stuck along the side of a motorway and in the middle of a suburban sprawl.  Not ideal and not easy to access.  It’s a wave-like structure half buried in the ground.  It looks like an old air raid shelter my parents had in their back garden during the war.  The building’s architect, Renzo Piano, wanted to build something extraordinary that would be in harmony with the artistic movement that it represented – surrealism at the turn of the century.  There are 4,000 Klee paintings in the museum amply padded with a Picasso here, a Joan Miro, or Dali there.   In all, it truthfully is not much my cup of tea, although I liked the black and white photo depiction of the history of the artists and the period.  There is also a children’s section where budding young artists are free to connect the dots between aspiration and reality.  The cafe was a great place to grab lunch and surprisingly for Switzerland it was relatively a good deal.  It’s worth the stop if you like this sort of thing.  If surrealism is not your thing, it’s not such a bad place to pass a few hours in between where you have come from and where you are going.

 

Visiting Germany’s Baden Baden

All I knew about the German city of Baden Baden was that it was a famous spa town.  But I also recall the English football team had boot camped there with their WAGS one infamous tournament of which there have been so many.  So I equated it with failure, inevitability, and the hopelessness of England to ever be successful at soccer again after one great and surreal moment in 1966.  Off I went to visit Baden Baden and try to heal the memories and expunge the dreadfulness of overpaid footie players.

Baden Baden is really quite a short drive from Strasbourg.  The border between the two
countries, France and Germany, is evident and comes upon you quickly.  It’s dull and ironically is marked by a mosque at what was the checkpoint. One brief autobahn ride and within an hour we found ourselves in this very beautiful and well-manicured town.  There were tons of fancy hotels with spa facilities advertised everywhere.  There is an elegant long ascent up a wide series of well-kept gardens.  There was a delightful clay court tennis club that looked like it had been there for years, it had a turn of the 19th century fell about it and its doors were open to whoever fancied a game.  A rushing river cut through the center of the gardens and people were strolling along its banks as if they were in a French impressionist painting.  It was so damn civilized.

There were lots of Range Rovers and Audis but nothing too flashy.  It was very much a Sunday place.  In fact, every day, I imagine, seems like Sunday here.  Women with hats and couples arm in arm.  We grabbed a good lunch at a belle époque restaurant.  The food was a welcome relief from the heavy meat meal of its neighbor over the border.  All I could think about was how this region had been tossed around like a tennis ball in that clay court for 50 years.  I didn’t get to go to a spa.  It seemed complicated and difficult to figure out how to gain entrance. You knew the spas were somewhere but it just didn’t seem that if you wanted to go for a spa holiday, you would
choose this place.  Maybe it wasn’t sexy enough or accessible enough.  Or maybe I just missed it!  Baden Baden is absolutely worth a visit.  It’s beautiful and it even had a couple of Sequoia trees towering in the gardens.  How strange that at the top end of the town, beyond the hotels, something that seemed so terribly northern Californian was front and center.  Redwoods.  California, Germany.  Go figure.

 

What Do You Love About Telluride?

I had a credit from the Hotel Madeline in Telluride, CO.  They were kind enough to roll the credit from a canceled reservation a year ago over to a new reservation this year.  So my son and I hit Telluride.  I had never been before although I had heard lots about it.  We both love to ski so this seemed like a perfect storm.

Getting to Telluride is not easy.  It’s more or less impossible to drive from Denver (6 hours) so a flight to Montrose Airport is the usual way in and that’s what we did.  Montrose is a strange place.  One hour and a half drive from Telluride, it couldn’t be farther.  There is a great diner there, Starvin Arvins, where the eggs and corn beef hash are exceptional.  The waitresses all wear pumps and the clientele can look very different to us folks from the eastern territories.  Not more than 20 minutes from Montrose is Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park.  The canyon is as deep as the Grand Canyon but not as wide.  It was spectacular in the early morning mist to see this giant chasm in a national park right next door to a very bland, modern town like Montrose.

An hour and a half later we arrived in Telluride. The town is really two towns. Mountain Village is essentially the new town.  It’s built along the lines of all American ski resorts with plenty of large fire pits, bars, and fake old new buildings.  However, it was functional and had great access to the lifts.  The Hotel Madeleine was right there – literally just a hop to the lifts.  We were taking advantage of my credit.  Actually, the hotel itself was a bit of a standout.  It had a nice pool, although not big enough to do lengths in, fabulous twin outside jacuzzis, a great steam room, and a slightly overpriced breakfast buffet.

There is a gondola that serves the new town and the old town.  It runs from early in the morning to midnight.  You can ski off at the midpoint or simply use it as public transportation between the two towns.  I loved this facility.  It’s also free and paid for by the state of Colorado as a form of public transportation.  I always think of great moments in travel like the Venice motor launch in from the airport.  This was one of those moments.  At the end of the day just before sunset, we would ride the gondola down to the old town.  Telluride is high up at 13,000 feet so these trips were spectacular and the ride down was thrilling every night.

I really loved this place.  Loved the old clipper mining town and the restaurants down there.  We ate well every night and the tacos at Taco Del Gnar are cheap and amazing.  There was an Italian restaurant close to the gondola that was good but not standout.  But everything was amazing every night especially Rustico and 221 South Oak.  At the top of Telluride, there is a fabulous place to break up the day called Alpino Vino.  It’s the highest restaurant in North America at 13,000 feet.  On a sunny day in the right place and a great table, you can see forever.  Telluride has a population of 2,000 people, seven dispensaries, and some of the best skiing in the Rocky Mountains with great restaurants.  Something for everyone.

 

Have You Ever Found a Hidden Shop in Paris?

About three years ago, I was wandering up the Rue de L’Odeon in Paris and this tiny little shop caught my eye.  It was called SérieRare and in the shop window, there were door knobs, door knockers, and one brass gold-plated bracelet that I fell in love with.  Not really wanting a door knob or a brass knocker, but looking for presents for Christmas, I wandered in.

A lovely lady was in there and we exchanged a “bonjour” when I inquired about the bracelet.  In my terrible French, I asked her if she had any others.  “Bien sur,” she said, and she proceeded to open a hidden cabinet filled with bracelets, bangles, and earrings.  All of the items are beautifully crafted by an artist called Daniel Podva.  He also is a great photographer.

What I love about this place is that you would never have guessed it.  It has become a regular stop for me when I am passing through Paris; a secret treasure trove of beautiful jewelry.  I have even upgraded my haul to include an occasional candelabra.  Probably the nicest thing about the store is that it’s near everything.  When you come out, you can take a right to the Odéon-Théâtre de l’Europe, one of France’s six national theaters, right next to the Luxembourg Gardens, or a left down to St. Germain and the bustle of the mainstream Latin Quarter.  There is also a fabulous restaurant, one of my favorites, at the top by the Odeon called La Méditerranée.  Who would have thought?

A Parisian Exhibition Unlike Any Other

I had never been to the Fondation Louis Vuitton before.  It is such an amazing sight as you approach it through the Bois de Boulogne.  Constructed around a cascading stairway of water, it’s an assemblage of huge glass sails and blocks known as “icebergs.”  Because of the glass, the trees that surround it, and the constant movement of water, it creates a continuous impression of movement depending on the time of the day and night.  It is quite a sight to behold.

We had booked tickets for an extraordinary exhibition based around the artworks of a Russian textile magnet named Sergei Shchukin.  One of the richest guys in Russia at the turn of the 20th century, his house, or more likely palace, in St. Petersburg, held the most extensive collection of Matisse’s in the world.  He bought them when nobody was buying pieces by Matisse.  As one collector of the time said of him and his collection of Matisse’s, “One mad man painted them, another bought them!”  He had 37 Matisse’s in all and Matisse, who visited him in Moscow several times, commented that he was a strange guy with a heavy stutter who was crazy about art and had a vision and an eye for the unfashionable.

Matisse offered to introduce Sergei to a mate of his who was doing very unorthodox things at the time.  The introduction went well.  Even though Sergei did not much enjoy the paintings from his friend, he bought them, and lots of them.  He figured that Matisse and his friend were probably smarter than he was, and one day his investment may even make him some money.  The friend’s name was Pablo Picasso.

At the end of the first World War, as the Russian Revolution loomed, Sergei fled both his country and his collection of art.  His art was scattered – not just the Picasso and Matisse pieces, but Cezanne, Gauguin, you name it, he had it.  Much of it thankfully ended up at the Hermitage Museum in St Petersburg. Although during the Stalin years – and there were lots of them – the viewing of his paintings were forbidden because Stalin thought that both Matisse and Picasso were seditious counter-revolutionaries.  Oh dear.

This exhibition in Paris was the first time that Sergei’s entire collection could be viewed and the first time his collection had ever been out of Russia.  Paintings that had been seen by most only on postcards were staring at you from across the room.  It was a two-and-a-half-hour romp through a madman’s house to view the great artists of the 20th century at the beginning of their careers.

 

Paris, Rome and London!

I’m a lucky guy – I’m spending two weeks working in three of my favorite cities.
In Paris – my all time fave place to eat is Mediterrano at the Odeon, (http://www.la-mediterranee.com/)
in Rome, it’d be Carbonara in Campo di fiori,
and in London – yes you CAN get great food especially if you go to Sheekeys!
@JSheekeyrest @RistoranteLaCarbonaraRoma

What are your fave places in these cities? I love to try new places!

Do You Have Irish Roots?

Referendums

It’s been a tough few months out there.  First, the disastrous vote on Brexit by the (get this) “Brexiteers” followed by the new reign of King Trump of Orange (no relation to William of Orange).  And here I am with two passports, one British and one American, feeling that I need a stopgap.  As it turns out, the UK parliament has decidedly voted to move Brexit into motion.  What that means for me is that I face, along with every other pro-European, the uncertainty of access into the 27 other member countries of the EU.  So, whoever thought up the idea of a referendum? Well, actually we have the Swiss to blame for that.

Around the 13th century, the Swiss started it all and it still thrives there to this day.  All you need to trigger one of these things is 100,000 votes.  Well, as we know, it’s not all wine and roses.  Hitler used the device to promote his populist rantings and managed to screw the entire western world over and kill a lot of innocent people in the process.  Referendums gave him the dictatorial powers that enabled him to dominate the evil arena for over 12 years.  In the USA, there’s no national mechanism for a referendum.  Pity, as we could probably do something about Donald of Orange right now given his current standing!  Still, 24 states hold referendums and Massachusetts became the most recent state to pass legalization of marijuana laws through this device.  So, referendums are really not all that bad.  It’s just that when you need them to fail, the failsafe doesn’t work.  Brexit voters just caused the biggest upset in British politics…and what will happen to Scotland?  After all, Romans thought it was wise to keep out the Scots by building a wall!  Heard that somewhere before.  Didn’t work then. Won’t work now!

My Only Hope – Ireland

My grandmother was from County Clare and according to Irish law that entitles me to apply for citizenship.  Therefore, it’s a route back into the European sunshine of 27 states.  I knew granny would be good for something even though none of us could understand a word that she said!  So, off I have been on the path of discovery to County Clare, the tiny town of Scarriff, and the even tinier hamlet of Aughram.  I am looking at church records, the births and deaths register in Dublin, you name it, I am on it.  And I am nearly there.

To be honest, it is exciting to retrace my heritage and the journey has been a journey of discovery and revelation.  As it turns out, my grandmother was telling porkypies (lies) about her age and it seems porkypies about her name.  But I got her!  Even though the shocking news about name and age was difficult to take for my mother, the consolation for us all was that we can all get Irish passports.  Unless, of course, the Brexit vote is reversed.  Unlikely though with the way the world is shaping up at the moment.  For Americans, think laterally.  You may have relatives in Mexico or Canada and let’s face it, a Mexican or Canadian passport may be the only way you get to spend your vacations in Cancun.  Of course, you may never be allowed back to the USA!

 

 

When Will The Airlines Learn Good Business?

The other day while experiencing a 7.5-hour delay at the airport for a flight from New York to Boston, the loudspeaker message came over stating they were looking for passengers prepared to take an alternative flight for a credit voucher on the same airline.  Let the buyer beware, as we know with United Airlines, it’s not just good enough to say that you’re not interested, you are actually playing a game of poker with them.  They’re offering you money but if nobody takes it then they double the money.  If nobody takes it, they pick four unsuspecting people with no compensation and drag them off of the plane head first.  It’s already bad enough having to deal with bad attitudes and entrenched values on traditional carriers such as United Airlines and American Airlines.  But now we have to deal with the possibility that they can drag you off of the plane.  I guess these big carriers have not seen what is under that tiny tip of an iceberg floating in a sea of air transportation called JetBlue and Norwegian Air.  A warning to United…being competitive with JetBlue doesn’t work by removing the first three letters of your name.  You tried that (Ted Airlines) and it did not work.  A warning to American…receiving the reward for the worst airline two years in a row is not an accolade.  Jesus, you’d think these guys would learn.

If you haven’t seen the video yet, here you go…

Where oh Where is Strasbourg?

The territory of Alsace-Lorraine is not quite France but very much a part of it.  We were headed to Strasbourg, the capital of the territory, to see this beautiful city that sits on the Rhine and its tributaries.  It has fabulous wines and is the center of power for the European Parliament.  Who knows, this would potentially be for me a last look at what it was like to see a Union Jack outside the Parliament building after Brexit.

Strasbourg is foremost a beautiful town – it’s very German in feel and therefore very organized.  There are great restaurants and the pedestrian zone around the massive cathedral is worth the visit.  It has this very Euro feeling to it and houses the second largest university in France.  The constantly circulating river boats do sightseeing tours and allow you to see the beautiful old buildings adorning the river.  There is lots of sightseeing activity on the river boats and at night, a walk to the main square to see the cathedral is an absolutely spectacular stroll.  We ate in a couple of good Alsace restaurants and likely had way too much meat but greatly enjoyed the Rieslings and Pinot Blancs.  It’s one of the few times that I allow myself to indulge in sautéed foie gras.

What is cool about this city is that it’s a base to visit two other spectacular nearby places – Baden Baden and Colmar.  For a French teacher, Colmar is a must and Baden Baden is a fabulous add-on across the border.  We even got to see a baseball game outside the EU parliament.  How strange, especially since baseball, so they say, is on the decline and soccer is on the rise.  It seems here in the heart of Europe a flicker of faith was keeping the old ball game alive.  Meanwhile, the Union Jack was flying high; a last flutter of the flag to denote that the great European experiment, alive and well everywhere, and created after the disaster of the second world war, was getting red carded in the U.K.  Go on Scotland, declare independence and leave Auntie Britain and go live with your less superior relatives, The Euros.  Ireland seems much happier living with its European neighbors since its divorce in 1922!

 

What’s Your Favorite Airline for Domestic Travel?

Boarding a plane domestically is getting to be just as bad as reading a magazine during a dental surgery knowing that almost certainly what happens inside is not going to be good.

Given the fact that there are so many different elite statuses, and the airlines charge for bags that are checked, everybody is bringing their rollies on-board.  And of course, unless you get there first, you are not going to make the final cut and you will be sentenced to putting your bag in the hold of the plane.  Good news though, it’s at zero cost and the bag is unlikely to get lost on the conveyer belts at the originating airport.  Either way, it is a nightmare.  Whatever system is employed, it usually fails – back to front, elite status first, ready-set-go, it all creates a pretty awful customer experience as people push each other to grab those important marker spaces to throw their bags in the overhead bins.  Flight attendants are getting more diligent on where people are throwing their bags.  If you think you will be throwing your bag in the business part of the plane if you’re traveling in coach, think again.

So why is it that with all this confusion, Southwest Airlines, which has been operating the most basic system of all with no baggage surcharge if you check, is always considered the best system?  It’s random, there’s no class distinction, you just line up in rows with numbers allocated and you cannot move until they tell you.  And on the airplane, it’s a free for all so you choose your seat, have a nice day, and get over it.  It works and that’s the way it goes.  The domestic boarding experience is one of the most horrific experiences known in the airline industry and yet the glowing example of how to do it right is staring everybody in the face.

But Southwest Airlines, which sits at a comfortable number four in overall ranking for the best USA domestic airlines, is not where it wants to be in terms of overall ranking.  Number one for the fourth year in a row is Alaska Airlines, number two for the second year in a row is Delta, number three is Virgin America, and number four is Southwest.  Most people would probably guess that the worst airline out there would be Spirit Airlines but actually, Spirit beats out American Airlines coming in at number eight.  However, American is at least consistent and retains its stronghold and the prize for the worst airline for 2016.  It’s the worst in canceled flights, worst in tarmac delays, and worst in mishandled baggage.  While Spirit hangs down at the bottom for delays and complaints, you have to ask who would complain about a $25 ticket on a 1,000-mile route?  On the other hand, American is charging big bucks for crap service.  Get a load of this – American’s numbers actually improved over last year.  Alaska, which has just acquired Virgin America, looks like it will further improve its network and grab some of its strong points and push it over to what was its Virgin competitor.

While the overall performance of airlines is a lot better than it was a year ago, it’s good to know who you want to put your bag and your bet on.  Need we say more but the most punctual airline in the USA was the beloved Seattle-based Alaskan at 86% and the tardiest was Spirit at 74%.  So, the numbers are small and the differences are in the inches (leg room, on time performance, queuing up to get on the plane, etc.) but it does not take that much to look at who is best at what and adopt those practices throughout.  If Southwest has the best boarding, copy it.  If JetBlue has the best in-flight entertainment, emulate it.  If American cannot figure that out, then somewhere somebody better start changing the structure of the management rather than the structure of the plane.

 

 

eurostar-train

A Quibble over Train Stations

So I travel a lot and I love trains.  They are simply better in Europe than anywhere else –
efficient, convenient, and quick.  Frankly, it would be impossible to get much worse than an Amtrak train or even the so-called high-speed version, the Acela.

But I do have some complaints on European train stations.  Firstly, for all of its glitzy grandeur, how did they invent the terminal at St. Pancras in such a lousy way?  St. Pancras offers all of the familiar shopping mall amenities outside the terminal, but once you get inside and pass through security, you are locked in a tiny little world with one bad coffee shop and a badly stocked newspaper place.  That is it.  While I love the beauty of riding between London and Paris in a superfast train, I just think that they can do a better job of tidying up the stations at the end.  On the other end, the Gare du Nord is one of eurostar Gare du Nord photothe saddest examples of how not to make a great impression on your visit to such an amazing place like Paris.  And it feels seedy, the taxi set up is appalling and you know that someone is specifically out there with a view to ripping you off.  Of course, it happened to me.

This time it was the taxi scam.  You wait in the taxi line, you get to the cab, you jump in the cab, and then you notice that the taxi meter, as you are driving through the streets, has €50 stuck on it.  If you have made that trip before, you look at that €50 suspiciously.  When you ask the cab driver if there is something wrong with his meter, he happens to say, “No monsieur, you are in a premier taxi.”  You ask him what is premier about this taxi as you lined up with everyone else on the regular taxi stand – not a premier taxi stand.  He only restates that you are in a premier taxi.  So more or less, in French, you say, “Listen man, I am not going to pay you €50.  I know the fare is supposed to be €15. But I am most certainly going to call the police.”  The gauntlet is down.  He either stops the cab and kicks you out in the middle of nowhere, or he gets it.  This cab driver got it and delivered us to our hotel.  I gave him €15 and told him I was the Angel of Death.  Bottom line – check the meter when you jump in a cab!

The Confusing Ways of British Money

british money photo
It seems like an eternity but I remember well when England used pounds, shillings, and pence. The term £sd stood for librae, solidi, and denarii.  The measurement was based on Roman weights and measures and a pound of silver was divided into 240 denarius.  Remarkably and unfathomably, that stood through my childhood – 240 pence to a pound.

I was thinking the other day of that hilarious bit in Monty Python’s Life of Brian. What did the Romans do for us?  Apart from roads, sanitation, baths, building, currency etc.  So, there we were in the UK and Ireland pretty much using a Roman system for currency when the rest of the world had left us way behind and fled to decimalization.  Hey, that’s not going to happen again.  Yeah right, Brexit!  Screw those Europeans and all that Roman stuff.  We will show them.  Oh crikey!

So how bizarre was it to order a pint of beer for ten pence, egg and chips for just one and five, and a bag of chips for just four pence.  Four of chips please!  Or you could buy something classy for 19 and 11.  Imagine things like twopence and threepence, sixpence was called a tanner, and a shilling was called a bob.  “He is worth a few bob” meant that he was rich.  A pound was, and still is, called a quid or a knicker.  Half of a pound was a ten bob note or a tenner.  Lend me a tenner!  They even made a funny play about a tenor and a tenner and the play on words.  Two shillings and sixpence was half a crown or half a dollar.  Confused!?  Exactly!

But actually, the transition to decimalization surprisingly went remarkably well.  Prices rose, of course, but it was the British version of unification in Germany.  I mean we were nearly as efficient as the Germans!  Not as impressive but not bad.  Of course, the Italians did change currency along with most of the European countries by adopting the Euro on January 1st, 1999.  The Brits stuck with the pound!

So, I bought some coins the other day at a museum and it made me laugh.  I thought of egg and chips for one and six at the local café.  Travel changes lives.